27
Feb
2013
Posted by Nicole in Calendar, Costume Collections, Exhibitions 3 Comments

I’m beyond excited about the upcoming “Winter Masterpieces” event at ACMI – this is a real coupe for them, the amazing exhibition of Hollywood costumes that has recently finished at London’s V&A museum.

From the website:
Hollywood Costume explores the central role costume design plays in cinema storytelling. Bringing together the most iconic costumes from a century of filmmaking, this is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see the clothes worn by unforgettable and beloved characters in films from The Wizard of Oz (1939) to Titanic (1997), Ben-Hur (1959) to James Bond (2007).

This groundbreaking exhibition unites classics from the Golden Age of cinema, including Scarlett O’Hara’s green ‘curtain’ dress designed by Walter Plunkett for Gone with the Wind (1939) and the ‘little black dress’ designed by Hubert De Givenchy for Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961) with costumes from the latest Hollywood releases including Consolata Boyle’s outfits for Meryl Streep in The Iron Lady (2011) and Lindy Hemming’s high-tech Batman suit for Christian Bale in The Dark Knight Rises (2012).

Hollywood Costume illuminates the costume designer’s creative process from script to screen and reveals the collaborative dialogue that leads to the development of authentic screen characters. Hollywood Costume is curated by eminent Hollywood costume designer Deborah Nadoolman Landis with Sir Christopher Frayling and Keith Lodwick.

What: Hollywood Costume exhibition
When: Wednesday 24 April – Sunday 18 Aug 2013, Open daily 10am – 5pm (Thursdays until 9pm) ANZAC Day (Thu 25 Apr) open from 1pm
Where: ACMI, Federation Square, corner of Flinders and Swanston Streets, Melbourne
Cost: Full $19.50 Concession $15.50 more options can be seen at the website.
See more at: the ACMI website.

There’s also a great event programme to accompany the exhibition including films (of course) and talks.

Not to be missed! Here are some images from the V&A exhibition, a taster of what we might see (although I won’t mind if they leave off the actors’ faces, that looks a bit awkward).

All images courtesy the Victoria and Albert Museum, also the fabulous pic of Judy Garland from “The Wizard of Oz” is courtesy MGM and the Kobal Collection. Always a pleasure to see you, Dorothy.


28
Dec
2012
Posted by Nicole in Costume Collections, Exhibitions

Recently Rina from Take 2 Markets and I went to see the Fashion Meets Fiction exhibition at Burrinja Cultural Centre in Upwey. I thought you might like to see some pics.

In keeping with the theme of fashion and fiction, all of the displays were to accompany a book: I love reading so this was a pleasure. Whenever I pick up a new book, I always look first to see when it was written, or when it was set, so that I can mentally clothe and house the characters in the correct setting – this meant that there was sometimes a little difference between how I envisaged a character dressing and the display.

The exhibition has thoughtfully been set out in chronological order, so I shall continue that here.

One of the things that fascinates me the most about vintage and antique clothing, are the signs left behind from when garments are altered or updated. Quite a few of the fashions on display showed obvious signs and I itched to turn them inside out and reveal all their secrets.


This dress from the 1850s was an interesting one – although the cotton fabric is original, the bodice shows signs of being a replacement, perhaps made out of the excess skirt fabric (crinoline skirts from this era have an enormous amount of fabric in them and a metre or two would not be missed). The indications were a bodice that is completely unstructured at the back, with no seams or darts, a strangely modern neckline that looks like it needs a collar, or fastening to stop it gaping open, and short sleeves that have been top-stitched with added lace trim.

I would have expected this gown to have longer sleeves, perhaps pagoda style. It also lacked the distinctive shoulder seams of this era, suggesting it was sewn much later, probably post-Victorian era. The skirt shape isn’t quite wide and full enough either, but that’s a display issue, perhaps the proper petticoat wasn’t available – they really were enormous, I have one that I made when I studied costume design, it’s seven metres around and makes you feel like an enormous tea cosy.


This beautiful gown from the 1860s was of a lovely floral silk fabric (hence why you’re seeing a close up). I like how you can see the waist darts have been taken out, perhaps when the wearer’s figure altered or it was adjusted for a new wearer. If you look closely, you can see two sets of darts, and both have been taken out.

This dress also had wonderful fluffy tassel buttons – sadly, they’re hard to see but perhaps it will encourage you to go and see for yourself?


One of the delights of the exhibition is being able to get up close to the fashions – not touch of course! We were there on a quiet morning, so we almost had the exhibition to ourselves. It was wonderful and a joy. This fabulous ensemble is from the early 1890s.

This ensemble from the 1880s is really interesting – if it wasn’t for the bustle, I would not have believed the dating correct. It features a lovely silk paisley fabric insert, probably from India hinting at the British Raj or colonialism. Orientalism started to have a big influence of fashion in the 19th century, with it’s bold colours and rich textures. This one is to illustrate “The French Lieutenant’s Woman”.


Phryne Fisher and her adventures are a feature of the exhibition, and it was wonderful to see some of the original book illustrations included with this sumptuous opera coat of metallic lame and silk velvet – the colours are wonderful! It reminds me of a Margaret Preston wood cut.

Author Kerry Greenwood is speaking as part of the accompanying events calendar, on February 8th.


This was one of my favourites – I just love these floaty tea gowns from the 1930s and this one with it’s soft blue on white print is a darling. They’re so wearable today, if you can find one in good condition, as they’re delicate and need gentle handling.

This one features floaty sleeves and the distinctive bias cut of the era – I love the inverted “v” on the bodice, with the gathering into the neckline. These were meant to be worn quite loosely, and this one shows signs of updating – the somewhat clunky self-belt that hides the lovely seaming of the centre front, and on the back there’s an alteration to the back of the neckline to presumably make it less wide of neckline – perhaps it wasn’t modest enough or was altered for someone smaller?

It’s so kind of exhibitions to enable us to see behind a garment – thank you Charlotte and everyone who set this one up, I really appreciate being able to see all around if I can.


How fabulous are these sleeves? I just love the sleeves of the 1930s, and these are particularly extravagant – how could you not feel wonderful wearing something like this?

Many of the books have been made into films and films are often set in different time periods – it was a little jarring to see “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” (written in 1958 and filmed in 1961) displayed with this skirt suit – it wasn’t something I could imagine Holly Golightly wearing – she would have considered it matronly and too grown up and preferred something younger. Perhaps it could have been worn by Patricia Neal’s character instead?

Still, the rest of us are probably delighted to see a real Dior New Look, made of silk faille with velvet trim, late 1940s. I know I was! It was all I could do not to lean forward and touch the silk.

Now here is a dress I covet – it was sold recently at Leonard Joel’s, and I’m sad to say that I bid unsuccessfully on it. Seeing it here makes me wish I had succeeded. It’s made by local couturier Lucy Secor, and comes with it’s own matching stole. I’m pleased to see it’s found a home with the Darnell Collection.


Now here’s a gown to make an impact – beautiful bodice detailing too.


Here’s a close up: the cashmere cardigan is featured in my book “Love Vintage” but I love the diamante clip and fur collar, and the skirt worn with it is sensational – a rich silk satin, printed with an abstract design and flocked in a lace design. I haven’t seen a fabric like this before. Another one I had to restrain the urge to stroke.


A late ’50s printed sundress by UK company Horrockses. I say this all the time, but I can’t get enough of these dresses. This style has been copied a lot by modern designers this season and it never fails to please: fitted bodice, nipped in waist, full skirt. Perfect for a hot day.


A very early ’60s evening gown, love the beadwork and wide cummerbund.


Another personal favourite, this striking late ’60s gown is also featured in my book. I took several shots this time, it looks great from every angle. The hat is great too.


The strength of the Darnell Collection is the couture but there’s also some lovely examples of more every day wear, like this lovely circa 1970 knitted dress. I can imagine it worn with chocolate brown knee high boots, with a bit of a platform.

I hope you enjoyed the pics – this is only a small smattering of what’s on display, and the exhibition is on until February 17th. More information can be found at the official website.


20
Nov
2012
Posted by Nicole in Calendar, Costume Collections, Exhibitions

A new exhibition of fashions from the Darnell Collection has opened in Upwey.

From the website:
“Fashion meets Fiction is an exciting and innovative exhibition concept that brings together our love of popular fiction and its many famous colourful characters with the cultural trend towards high-end fashion, and particularly period pieces.

In partnership with Eastern Regional Libraries and celebrating the National Year of Reading, this exhibition travels through time and the popular culture and fiction of the periods, drawing together the threads of character, period, fashion and finery.”

What: Fashion Meets Fiction – the Darnell Collection
When: 9th November to 7 February 2013, Tue – Sun: 10:30am – 4:00pm
Where: Burrinja Cultural Centre, 351 Glenfern Rd, Upwey
More information at: the website.

Here are some pics I took when I was there for the media launch.


Charlotte Smith, curator of the Darnell Collection


17
Feb
2012
Posted by Nicole in Costume Collections 2 Comments

Last night was a wild and woolly evening, and by the time I’d spent two hours driving v-e-r-y slowly through storm and traffic jams, I was quite frazzled and fully expected to be late. As it was, I was the first one to arrive at Loel Thomson’s amazing costume museum. Many of us didn’t make it though, so if you missed out, or would like to come and see the collection on another day (or perhaps live on the other side of the world) here are some pics from her latest exhibition.

Loel’s museum is amazing: I can’t emphasize this enough, and her collection is available for group tours or as a resource for students – just call her on (03) 9852 1794 to arrange a visit, as she’s not there all the time.

Loel usually starts off with a talk about what she does (social history through fashion), and we learnt that the oldest piece in her collection is from about 3AD, a Roman fibula – but as her focus is Australian fashion, the earliest piece from the colony is about 1790, not long after settlement. Her most recent may well be a pair of Crocs! I was surprised to see them on display with those other piece of footwear you’re unlikely to ever see me in, thongs and Ugg boots. The Doc Martens were more my style and I’m now on the hunt for a pair of the 20 eye boots, if you have a pair going wanting, Loel would love to add them to the collection.

Onto the photos – as always, click on an image to see in full – this is only a small part of what she currently has on displays. Exhibits including “A Summer Afternoon”, with fashions from the 19th and 20th century, lingerie, duster coats for driving, many 19th century tableaus, history of sewing, accessories, jewellery, buckles and endangered species. You’ll see some selections below. I particularly loved the knitted wool section with a knitted swimsuit, dresses and jumpers. Enjoy.


23
Jan
2012
Posted by Nicole in Calendar, Costume Collections, events 3 Comments

An evening visit to Loel Thomson’s amazing collection of period dress has been organised for next month:

What: The Costume Collection, talk and tour.
When: Thursday 16th February, 2012 – 6pm – 8pm.
Where: 39 Greenaway Street, Bulleen.
Cost: $5 which Loel donates to a local nursing home.
Bookings: call Circa on 9419 8899.

Loel is a private collector who has dedicated her time and resources to the collection, preservation and display of over two hundred years of Australian fashion. Many of her pieces were included in my book Love Vintage.

I’m sure that she has the best collection of Australian fashion in the country, as well as jewellery, accessories and lace. There’s also an impressive tea cosy collection!

Here’s a pic that I took at a previous visit – Loel uses vintage mannequins and styles the hair according to the date of the clothing.

Regency era – 1820s.

For those who are interested in social history, the history of fashion or just beautiful clothes, I thoroughly recommend this visit. Numbers are limited and RSVP is essential. Please call the shop on 9419 8899, if you get the answering machine, please leave your name, phone number and how many people you would like to book.

Hope to see you there!


16
Nov
2011
Posted by Nicole in Calendar, Costume Collections, Exhibitions 2 Comments

From the in-box:

Join us for an evening uncovering vintage couture fashion with special guest, Charlotte Smith. Charlotte is a fashion collector, author and the custodian of the Darnell Collection, bequeathed to her by her late godmother, Doris Darnell.

What: Dreaming of Couture – An evening of vintage fashion with Charlotte Smith and the Darnell Collection.
When: 6-8pm, Wednesday 23 November 2011
Where: Powerhouse Discovery Centre, 172 Showground Road, Castle Hill (Sydney)
Cost: $30.00 per person. Bookings and prepayment by credit card is essential as numbers
are strictly limited. Bookings on 02 9762 1300.


A beautiful silk frock, photo courtesy the Darnell Collection.

Following the lecture, guests are invited to enjoy drinks and canapés and purchase signed copies of Charlotte Smith’s beautiful books documenting the Darnell Collection, Dreaming of Chanel and Dreaming of Dior, published by HarperCollins Australia with stunning hand-drawn fashion illustrations by Grant Cowan.

A beautiful display of garments from the Darnell Collection will be on exhibition at Castle Hill RSL from 17th to 27th November 2011. Dreaming of Couture and the Darnell Collection display at Castle Hill RSL are feature events of SENSORIA — – The Sydney Hills festival of music, art and culture. See — – Hear — – Taste — – Experience.

The event organisers are offering one free ticket to an interested reader – all you have to do is leave a comment on this post, saying what you would do if you inherited a large collection of international couture fashions.

Entries close on Friday at noon (Sydney/Melbourne time).


2
Apr
2011
Posted by Nicole in 1950s, 1960s, Calendar, Costume Collections, Exhibitions 2 Comments

What: MANNEQUIN: Fashion Modelling in the 1950s and 60s
When: 1 April – 3 July 2011, open 10.30am to 4pm daily.
Where: Como House, cnr Williams Rd and Lechlade Ave South Yarra.
Cost: $12, concession $9

UPDATE: This exhibition has now been extended until July 17th.

I can’t believe there was ever a time when beautiful fashions of the past weren’t being displayed in museums, but it was true – I’ve probably mentioned it before, but it was a major reason why I started collecting, historical fashions simply weren’t seen outside of books and second-hand clothing shops.

The first time I ever saw costumes exhibited was at the NGV in 1984. Back then, it seemed to be the only gallery in the country that had a permanent (albeit small) display. Through my studies and interest I soon discovered that many cultural institutions have costume collections but due to a perceived lack of public interest and funding, they were hidden away in the vaults.

The National Trust has one of the best collections around – I helped set up an exhibition of 19th century gowns at the Princess Theatre in 2003 and I was awed by the incredible beauty and quality contained in these exquisite thirty gowns.

It gives me great pleasure to see the National Trust displaying their beautiful collection and so on Thursday night I was delighted to attend the opening of their latest display at Como House. It was particularly nice to see photographs of fashions, set in the house and grounds of Como House itself in the ’50s and ’60s! Accompanied by the gown itself and if you were lucky, the original model might be standing nearby looking fabulous (Diane Masters, I’m sorry I was too shy to introduce myself but you’re an inspiration!).

From the website:
Told in their own words, Mannequin will showcase the careers of Melbourne’s top models through their personal memorabilia, images and couture by designers, such as Hall Ludlow.

The exhibition will delve into the vast archive of photographs, newspaper and magazine spreads and the fashion that inspired them, held in the private collections of well-known career models.

The National Trust is privileged to offer Melbourne’s most elegant heritage estate for this important and popular fashion exhibition program. Como House will be transformed into an immersive visitor experience: a catwalk, a photographer’s studio and a magazine.

The National Trust has done a wonderful job of compiling and displaying these couture gowns, any lover of fashion will enjoy it immensely. The programme includes workshops by the Lindy Charm School and a ’60s cafe set up by Madame Brussels serving afternoon tea. I’m also doing a series of talks: stay tuned for more information or if you’d like to see the programme – or find out more about the exhibition, please see the Como House website.

Here are some pics I took the other night – the lighting is suitably dim to preserve the fabrics and I have left the whole first floor (with some of the best gowns and photographs) for you to discover. A beacon of colour in comparison, you will see Tim and Candice below, with rose petal cocktail (!) and a beautiful car that brought one of the VIPs in.

As always, click on an image to see it in full, click again to see it come up in full size.


30
Mar
2011
Posted by Nicole in 1950s, Calendar, Costume Collections, Exhibitions

You’ll have to be quick for this one, I’m afraid – it ends on Sunday.

The MARS Gallery is exhibiting many of the original illustrations for Charlotte Smith’s book “Dreaming of Chanel”. If, like me, you covert some of the beautiful couture in the Darnell Collection, this is a chance to own one of the original artworks.

I bought the polka dot frock that was paraded last week at Cranlanayou can see the original here, as worn by Eszter. Here’s the illustration, in Charlotte’s book you can find it on page 25.

The Gallery is kindly framing it for me – and soon it will be on display at Circa. I like this particular frock because not only do I now have a personal association with using it in the Cranlana parade, I love the provenance – the lady who made and wore it, hand-painted the polka dots. As some one who’s done this before, I can tell you that painting spots onto fabric to produce a professional finish, isn’t as easy as it seems.

What: Grant Cowan, original art from “Dreaming of Chanel”
When: 25th March-3rd April, 10am to 5pm.
Where: MARS Gallery, 418 Bay Street, Port Melbourne.
Cost: free and the art is for sale too.

More information at the website.


7
Mar
2011
Posted by Nicole in Calendar, Costume Collections, fashion parade 4 Comments

A lot of people ask me about the Darnell Collection and Charlotte Smith’s accompanying book “Dreaming of Dior”.

A rare opportunity to see some couture fashion featured in her most recent book “Dreaming of Chanel” is coming up. This is a small, private affair, an event to remember, and also a fundraiser, to help the Cardross Primary School Library, that was badly damaged in the recent Victorian floods – all monies raised will be donated.

What: Dreaming of Chanel – a couture fashion event.
When: 10.30am, Thursday March 24th
Where: Cranlana, 62 Clendon Road, Toorak.
Cost: $55

Bookings essential: please call Circa on 9419 8899 or My Bookshop by Corrie Perkins on 9824 2990. Very limited numbers.


Click on the flyer to see in full.


13
Jan
2011
Posted by Nicole in 1920s, 1930s, art deco, Calendar, Costume Collections, fashion parade 4 Comments

An intriguing event from the in-box:

Charlotte Smith, owner and curator of The Darnell Collection, the largest private collection of vintage couture garments and accessories in Australia, will continue her series of fashion lectures at the Carrington.

Charlotte will discuss fashion during the time Agatha Christie wrote many of her most famous mysteries. Guest will be entertained with conversation about Christie’s life, her inspiration and her famous detectives. A display of rare and valuable dresses from the ’20s will compliment a fashion parade of vintage dresses and accessories from the ’20s through to the ’40s. Following the catwalk parade a Q&A will take place.

What: Darnell at the Carrington – WHEN FASHION MEETS FICTION: ROMANCE, MYSTERY & STYLE
When: Sunday February 13th, 2pm to 3.30pm.
Where: The Carrington Hotel, Grand Dining Room, Katoomba, NSW
Cost: $15 per person
Bookings: call 0416 463 331 or the Carrington on 02 4782 1111.

Click on the flyer to see in full, click again for full size.

This event is part of a Roaring ’20s festival on that weekend – there’s also a Deco Ball, history tours, a speakeasy, a classic car display and ragtime jazz. For more information see the Carrington’s events page.


20
Apr
2010
Posted by Nicole in Calendar, Costume Collections, events 2 Comments

UPDATE: This event has been cancelled.
=================================

For those who live in or near Albury/Wodonga, the Albury library museum are organising a bus trip to visit Loel Thomson’s Costume Museum in Bulleen and Circa in Fitzroy (both are in Melbourne).

I’m going to give a talk about the work that I do with collecting and restoring vintage garments and Loel will also talk about her work with her collection.

What: Bus trip and visit to Loel Thomson’s costume collection and Circa Vintage Clothing, from Albury (NSW) to Melbourne (Vic)
When: Friday 14 May 2010, 7:00 AM – 7:30 PM
Where: Albury NSW
Cost: $80.00 $72.00 Friends of the Gallery
Bookings: please call 02 6023 8333

More information at the Albury City Council website

1890s gown from Loel Thomson’s collection.

Loel Thomson’s collection of two centuries of costume is amazing, and probably the largest collection of Australian dress in the country. You can read more about it here.


8
Feb
2010
Posted by Nicole in Costume Collections

Regular readers of my blog will be familiar with The Darnell Collection, Australia’s largest collection of couture fashion as curated by Charlotte Smith and presented in her wonderfully illustrated book Dreaming of Dior.

The Darnell Collection incorporates over 5,000 garments and accessories from the 18th century to the present one and small sections of it are made available through exhibitions at galleries and museums around Australia – for example, 1980s couture was recently featured in an exhibition at the Bendigo Art Gallery.

Now The Darnell Collection is permanently available for study and display at the new Fashion and Textile Gallery
8 Hill Street Surry Hills NSW 2010. Tel: 9360 0585
Opening hours:
Tuesday to Friday: 10am to 5pm
Saturday: 10am to 4pm
Sunday & Monday: Closed

As well there are lots of sewing classes, a monthly morning tea, exhibitions and a blog!


Illustration from “Dreaming of Dior”, reproduced courtesy Harper Collins Australia.


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