Costume Collections


Next week I’m popping up to Sydney briefly to see the Sydney Vintage Clothing, Jewellery and Textiles Show. It’s on next Friday night, Saturday and Sunday at the Canterbury Racecourse. Here’s a pic of some jewellery for sale at the last show.

Sydney Vintage Fair 4
Photo courtesy of lovevintage.com.au

Whilst in town, I hope to see the Handbag Exhibition at the QVB. On display will be 122 items from the fabulous Darnell Collection, dating back to the 18th century to the 20th - and also contemporary wares from QVB traders. It will be on until the end of the month.

Here you can see a beaded and bakelite bag from the early ’30s.
Darnell Collection beaded 30s bag
Photo courtesy The Age.

We’ve been in the Blue Mountains this week to photograph some select couture pieces from Charlotte Smith’s Darnell Collection. Here you can see Charlotte sharing a fabulous beaded 1920s silk gown with us.

charlotte20s.JPG

Charlotte is featured on this evening’s ABC programme The Collectors
Charlotte Smith’s collection has been described as “two centuries of elegance”. Three years ago Charlotte became the custodian of her godmother Doris Darnell’s world-renowned collection of vintage clothing and accessories, the largest of it’s kind in Australia. Dior, Versace, this collection has it all and it’s a treat indeed for the couture loving prof when he joins Charlotte for some high-end fashion ‘time travelling’.

You can see some more snaps I took during the session here. (more…)

Part Eight of the series on Loel Thomson’s Costume Collection.

Loel has created a lovely tableaux for two of her cotton ‘fifties frocks - I wish I had taken a close up of the one below, the cotton floral has that slightly uneven, slightly raised look that perhaps is hand-painted. It’s accessorised with a straw basket and glass necklace. I love the curtains!

50s frock with lamp

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Part Seven of the series on Loel Thomson’s Costume Collection.

World War 2 saw great changes in social roles and for clothing, the rising popularity of suits for women. ‘Forties suits are generally hand-tailored and of very high quality, designed to last the distance. As well as shoulder padding, some have bust and hip padding too, to create or emphasise the hour-glass silhouette.

I’m very fond of this era, the styles are classic and elegant and suitable for ladies of all ages. The princess line coats (see picture below the cut) are one of the most asked for styles at Circa.

40s suit

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Part Six of the series on Loel Thomson’s Costume Collection.

Garments from the 1930s can be the hardest to find in good condition in Australia - items from the ’20s have been collectable for a long time, and those from the ‘forties and ‘fifties were (up until recently) readily available, but it’s the delicate and feminine flowing gowns and crepe day dresses from between the periods that have proved the most elusive.

The first outfit displayed here is particularly special to me, as Loel purchased it from Circa shortly after we opened in 2004. I had bought it earlier that year from a Perth lady who had closed down her Subiaco shop several years earlier. The dress and matching capelet is in excellent condition, and features it’s original bakelite buckle.

Accessories include a silver dress clip and fox fur. On the left you can see a mannequin in 1920s day wear (featured in previous post).

30s suit (CVC)

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Part Five of the series on Loel Thomson’s Costume Collection.

I must confess to loving the ‘twenties - oh those rebellous flappers and all that rule breaking! We’ll probably never see their like again and still I’m in awe. It takes a lot to convince a young woman, heck, any woman, that showing off your feminine wiles isn’t important. I’m also in awe of the consistency of the ’20s ladieswear; there are minor deviations, sure, but what you generally see is a long tube shape of a dress (or suit or top and skirt) and a concerted effort to counteract female curvaceousness. It makes it a very easy era to date - the simplicity of the silhouette is counteracted by the luxury of the silk fabrics and the detailing: glass, steel and anthracite beading, gelatinous sequins (whatever you do, don’t put a sequinned flapper gown in water!).

I’m particularly impressed with Loel’s collection of ’20s: simple and embroidered cotton day dresses and extravagant evening gowns. It’s hard to appreciate the beadwork without closeups but if it looks fabulous, believe me, it is.

20s beaded 1

Click on the link for more (more…)

Part four of the series of photos taken at Loel Thomson’s Costume Collection on Monday.

I’ve taken “Edwardian” to cover the period from 1900 to 1920, and it encompasses one of my favourite eras, the “teens”. Garments from the teens are hard to find, however, and most of these come from the earlier part of the era.

In many ways, the Edwardian era is the last one of grandeur - it’s the transition between the ornate and detailed hand-made and hand-finished clothing of the Victorians and the ’20s when all the rules went out the window. Whilst quite wearable, clothes of this era tend to look very “costumey” on the modern wearer.

1912 Wedding
1912 wedding

More pics below the link: (more…)

Part Three of our visit to Loel Thomson’s Costume Collection.

Loel has a wonderful collection of garments from this era, it was hard to pick just a few. The bold colours of the silks have been well preserved and are still striking after all these years. Loel researches all details thoroughly and styles the hair and mannequin to match each era.

1850s Crinoline
Crinoline

Click on the link to see more photos… (more…)

Part Two of our visit to Loel Thomson’s Costume Collection.

Here is a shot of part of the exhibition space:
Costume Institute

I must admit to focusing on twentieth century costumes, and now wish I took more of the early pieces - here is an Empire line gown from about 1810 and a couple of Regency era costumes from about 1820.

Empire
Regency

Had a wonderful time at Loel Thomson’s Costume Collection yesterday - many thanks to Loel for sharing her collection, and everyone who could join me.

Took many photos, and it’s hard to choose which to post, so shall bring them to you in sections according to category. The first one is appropriate as we consider the impending Spring and Summer: swimwear. Loel has set up a collection of men’s and ladies swimwear from the turn of the twentieth century to the 1970s - I especially like the way she’s accessorised everything!

Swimwear Display

Come inside for closer shots of some of my favourite bathing suits. (more…)

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