At the recent vintage fair at Williamstown I chanced upon a remarkable frock – a Merivale from the early ’70s constructed patchwork-style from a large collection of original vintage fabrics from the ’30s and ’40s.
Not especially attractive or flattering (the dress is empire style and rather like a maxi-length smock with long blouson sleeves), I could not pass it up. It’s a piece of history, from a rare time.
During the late ’60s and early ’70s, fashion went backwards as much as it went forwards. Inspired by the ’20s to the ’50s, vintage came into vogue for the first time as beautiful (and original) clothing could still be found in the op shops for a pittance. Oh, how the story of these glory days are told often at Circa! Can you imagine finding beaded flapper gowns for a dollar or two?
The House of Merivale was to Australia what Biba and Ossie Clark was to the UK: stylish and sophisticated clothing, now highly collectable. This from The Powerhouse’s site:
Established by John and Merivale Hemmes, the landmark House of Merivale and clothing designed by Merivale revolutionised the Australian fashion scene. John and Merivale Hemmes were mavericks in Australian fashion. Modelled on London’s famous concept boutiques and catering to 18-25 year olds, the House of Merivale was the first specialty fashion boutique in Australia.
The House of Merivale was not just a shop; it was a phenomenon that significantly influenced a generation of young Australian’s attitude to shopping and the fashion experience. The House of Merivale was the place to go to for the latest trends in music, fashion and make-up and was the first store in Australia to sell the mini. The popularity of the boutique was such that teenagers would be lined up outside the door.
If you find a Merivale for a good price, consider picking it up as they’re getting harder to find these days and going up in value. Meanwhile – what of my patchwork dress? It’s a mystery. It was found in a country op shop by a traveller, who brought it to Diamond Dog of Seddon, where the lovely Mellita brought it to the Fair whereupon it caught my eye.
How can I be sure that it’s made of vintage fabrics? Rayons of the sort it uses are fragile creatures when wet and do not stand up to machine washing (I recommend hand washing for most, but dry clean only for crepes) so during the 1950s a new type of rayon was invented that could withstand modern rigours. The fabrics in my dress could only be old because the versions made in the ’60s and ’70s are very different. Not surprisingly, it comes with a “dry clean only” label but all the same, I’m surprised that it has survived. Crepes shrink if washed, as vintage lovers often find out to our detriment.
Here is a sample of the fabrics comprising this incredible frock. In the bottom row you’ll find one of the dress in full.
I remember the Mr Christian shoe shop in Brisbane…where mum wouldn’t let me buy pair of very high heels in about 1979… I did buy myself a wonderful pair of boots there in probably 1982 or 1983. I think I wore them to death.
My mother was one of those who picked up the beaded flapper dresses in the op shops…I still have some of her finds
Faye, I know this is a late reply, but the Inn Shoppe was in Bourke Street opposite Myer in the vicinity of Royal Arcade. It was quite a large store and I THINK went right through to Little Collins, I have vague memories of two entrances. The decor was very trendy but not as classy as HOM and the shop was very dark, hip and cool as hell! It started in the late 60′s I think as I remember first discovering it as a young teenage schoolgirl on a Saturday shopping expedition to the city… I was in awe and totally seduced by the wicked decadence of the place… VERY different shopping experience to the shops my Mum took me to for my clothes! I shopped there right through the 70′s, lots of satin shirts, flares, jackets and I still have a black velvet dress hanging in my closet, very early goth/bondage look, but quite classic and I could still wear it today. I think it may have closed down in the late 70′s but I’m guessing… what I wouldn’t give to live through thoses days again
Thank you Glenda! I cannot picture the shop(pe) but recall signage in pschydelic writing (???) around that time. Sasha shoes – wow I had forgotten about those. I had bright green flat ones which my mum bought me from Pinky’s Capitol Arcade, Swanston St. My dad threatened to give one to the dog so I couldn’t wear them! And satin flares I had in cream. My daughters 22 & 17 are wearing cork platforms these days, I don’t know how I ever did when I try them on now but I had forgotten about Sasha. I still have a classic sterling silver watch that I am wearing this very instant. I bought it from Gallery Sterling Myer Arcade in 1978. I still love it even though it is now quartz operative.
It is so great to be reminded of these times of past. Here we are now in 2012 with the worries of the world upon us – menopause & superannuation! Thanks again for your reply – I enjoyed reading your previous post too. Happy Days to you!
Ladies, thank you for your patience – I’ve started a gallery for the HOM, you can see it here. If you’d like to email me images, I can add them: pics of you wearing them or just by themselves, labels, packaging etc – the more the merrier. All rights to the images will remain with the original photographer.
I have lots more HOM and I’ll add it as I get photos of it – and my collection will grow too. I’m also going to add galleries of other Aussie designers like Prue Acton and Norma Tullo.
I hope you enjoy it and thank you to everyone for their contributions.
I have a little gold jumper from the HOM bought in 1968 from the Burke Street Store. I wore it with a pair of olive green baggy leg velvet pants with a high waist. The jumper didnt quite meet the pants but I thought it was great. I had the curly perm, black eye liner and pale makeup. We all went to the Thumping Tum Disco till 3 a.m. most Saturday nights.
HOM was a hip experience just like its clothes.
[...] getting their true recognition in Australian Fashion History. The Aztecs have been presenting the Merivale, Dr John, Prue Acton, Jenny Kee era hipster record collection, but my guess is they will be continue with our [...]
I still have my Gasworks velvet tapestry coat (1969) and Prue Acton halterneck. The Gasworks coat is now on ebay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320896275871?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
at what may seem to be a high price, but to be honest, it is such a beautiful coat with the quality of another time, that I am ambivalent about selling. But I will still have the Prue Acton, my last hurrah!? I’d love to live it all again, but reality really really bites:(
Beautiful coat, Susan – I hope you find a nice home for it.