The House of Merivale and a dress with history.

At the recent vintage fair at Williamstown I chanced upon a remarkable frock – a Merivale from the early ’70s constructed patchwork-style from a large collection of original vintage fabrics from the ’30s and ’40s.

Not especially attractive or flattering (the dress is empire style and rather like a maxi-length smock with long blouson sleeves), I could not pass it up. It’s a piece of history, from a rare time.

During the late ’60s and early ’70s, fashion went backwards as much as it went forwards. Inspired by the ’20s to the ’50s, vintage came into vogue for the first time as beautiful (and original) clothing could still be found in the op shops for a pittance. Oh, how the story of these glory days are told often at Circa! Can you imagine finding beaded flapper gowns for a dollar or two?

The House of Merivale was to Australia what Biba and Ossie Clark was to the UK: stylish and sophisticated clothing, now highly collectable. This from The Powerhouse’s site:

Established by John and Merivale Hemmes, the landmark House of Merivale and clothing designed by Merivale revolutionised the Australian fashion scene. John and Merivale Hemmes were mavericks in Australian fashion. Modelled on London’s famous concept boutiques and catering to 18-25 year olds, the House of Merivale was the first specialty fashion boutique in Australia.

The House of Merivale was not just a shop; it was a phenomenon that significantly influenced a generation of young Australian’s attitude to shopping and the fashion experience. The House of Merivale was the place to go to for the latest trends in music, fashion and make-up and was the first store in Australia to sell the mini. The popularity of the boutique was such that teenagers would be lined up outside the door.

If you find a Merivale for a good price, consider picking it up as they’re getting harder to find these days and going up in value. Meanwhile – what of my patchwork dress? It’s a mystery. It was found in a country op shop by a traveller, who brought it to Diamond Dog of Seddon, where the lovely Mellita brought it to the Fair whereupon it caught my eye.

How can I be sure that it’s made of vintage fabrics? Rayons of the sort it uses are fragile creatures when wet and do not stand up to machine washing (I recommend hand washing for most, but dry clean only for crepes) so during the 1950s a new type of rayon was invented that could withstand modern rigours. The fabrics in my dress could only be old because the versions made in the ’60s and ’70s are very different. Not surprisingly, it comes with a “dry clean only” label but all the same, I’m surprised that it has survived. Crepes shrink if washed, as vintage lovers often find out to our detriment.

Here is a sample of the fabrics comprising this incredible frock. In the sixth row you’ll find one of the dress in full – then I’ve added pics of more House of Merivale pieces including a box from The White Shop. Hover your mouse over the images after the fabric swatches, to learn more about it.

Update: I’ve added more HOM.

In 1955 Merivale Hemmes started with making hats, later branching out into other aspects of ladies fashions with her business partner, husband John. The first House of Merivale shop opened in Sydney in 1959 and expanded into a six level Victorian building on Pitt Street in 1970, incorporating a Thai tea cafe. During the ’60s and ’70s, the HOM was the place to be seen and buy the latest in fashions including Prue Acton, Norma Tullo and Merivale’s own designs.

From the Powerhouse Museum’s site: “The House of Merivale promoted fashion that was inspired by London’s boutique culture featuring a fusion of fashion, pop music and art in an atmosphere that was dynamic and fun. The House of Merivale was committed to designing ‘modern clothes for people with a zest for life.’ The House of Merivale revolutionised young people’s fashion and shopping experience.”

At their height, the House of Merivale had three shops in Sydney’s Pitt Street including the White Shop, that specialised in bridal wear, two in Melbourne and one in Canberra.

Over time, the focus of the business moved to hospitality, with a restaurant opening in Potts Point in the early ’90s. The last HOM fashion shop closed in 1996. A large number of establishments currently make up the Merivale stable, run by Justin Hemmes, the son of John and Merivale.

Readers are encouraged to submit photos of HOM garments – all rights remain with the original photographer. Please email for inclusion.

Sources: Merivale and the Powerhouse Museum.



  1. I just then dug out my old blue and white striped coat I bought from Mr.John/Sydney way back in 1970-71.Still in great condition tho’ not sure if I would wear it again..
    It makes quite a statement,tho’ was thinking if I should nostalgically keep it or part with it..??..Wished I had kept the receipt :o(
    My favourite shops of that era was of course Mr.John and The In Shop…

  2. I bought a black taffeta dress (size 8) and a great little fluffy jacket with gold flecks through it (not sure whether it’s duck feather) but still in fantastic nick and i still wear it after 32 years.

  3. I bought my x wife a two piece hot pink size 8 short jacket & tight matching skirt (stretchy – rayon I think) in the 80’s for $1000.00. 2 weeks wages for a young 22 y.o. I was in love – big time!! Pitty ee split in 1998 :'( This was from HOM in Melbourne. The attention she got (i.e. Shopping experience) was amazing. HOM staff were well trained in making their customers feel special! I too had bought some pants from Mr John ★★★

  4. Hi, I have kept the most beautiful Merivale dress bought when I was about 18…maybe 1970. It cost me a weeks wages. It is a hankerchief dress made up of delicate squares of black with orange yellow and red flowers attached to main dress on the point of the square. It ties over the bust and has a tiny shoestring for the neck and comes to about the ankle.It still has the original tags with machinist, colour, style, cut ,order no. Its magnificent, but I dont know what to do with it. Regards Susan

  5. Bought a very Merivale dress in Sydney in the early 1970’s. Very bright colours against blue background. Print sailing boats and birds with big skirt. Always loved wearing it and it is the only piece of “old clothing” that I have kept. Wish I could find someone young to wear it again.

  6. Hi, was that The In Shoppe in Parramatta, in the main street? I was always going in there 1967-1968(?) and looking at the clothes, being into the fashion of the day – bell-bottom wool high waisted trousers and the like. My mum went with me one day (I was 15 at the time) and we bought a pair of creme trousers that had a check line pattern on them, high waisted of course. I wore them with a burgundy turtle neck collar jumper and my “Beatle” boots (brown suede with chiselled toe and elastic sides). I still have memories of the clothes hanging everywhere, the smell of the place and the hip music playing!

  7. My mum still has a gorgeous two piece formal dress in white which she wore to her wedding (40years ago this year!) which I am hoping to wear to my wedding next year if a good dry cleaner can remove some stains! Amazed it has survived this long

  8. I am looking to buy a Merivale large leather bag
    I purchased one from the Sydney store in the 70″ s
    It was navy blue with JAM logo and teardrop key ring
    It had label ” especially made “for with my name inside
    I loved my bag until it was taken by a dishonest person
    If anyone ever knows of one for sale please let me know

  9. I have a beautiful house of merivale dress with tags still attached that I brought from an op shop for 2 dollars! I’ve spent the last 3 year’s trying to get some information about it but haven’t found anything. Its a real gem.

  10. Ashley, are you in Melbourne? If you could bring it to me to see I could probably tell you some things about it. Nice op shop score too.

  11. I remember those large leather JAM bags. I wish they were still available. Good luck in trying to find one. Maybe someone could copy them? I would love one now.

  12. Yes, I remember them too: I once saw one on Ebay UK, but it was rather expensive, plus the shipping would be expensive. I’m keeping my eye out though, they were really nice.

  13. I still have the 3 dresses I bought from HOM in Collins Street Melbourne 32 years ago as a very fashionable 20 year old. They are gorgeous flowy numbers which were very expensive back then, around $200 each. I don’t wear them now but wouldn’t part with them, I love them and the memories of the time they have.

  14. I have come across a turkey feathers vest, made in France “Sorbet” is the model name on the tag, it is amazing, if I send a photo are you able to give me an idea on worth?

  15. Hi Kathryn, I’ll probably have to do some research to be able to supply a good valuation for your feathers, due to the unusual and rare nature of the items. If you’d like to email me at nicole at circavintage dot com dot au I can supply my rates and we can arrange a time to discuss. Thank you.

  16. It’s so lovely to read this article. My wedding dress too was a Melbourne purchased House of Merivale & Mr John, long, off-the shoulder antique lace gown. (My second marriage when I was 26 & I was afraid of what people would think of me wearing a formal white wedding dress. (So different now.) It was so special to buy anything from that shop at that time & it made my day & gown very special to me, regardless of being unable to go ‘formal’. I’m sure my girls will be delighted too when they read this article.

  17. I have the navy blue JAM bag! I recently moved house after 30 years and found it at the back of the top of a wardrobe! I saved up for ages to buy that bag.
    I also have a black velvet coat dress from the late ’70s, with the signature arrow head darts in dull bronze coloured thread. It was on special in the Collins St store for $26.

  18. I remember the House of Merrivale and Mr John opening up in Canberra in the 70’s (Canberra House in West Row), which at that stage had pretty much nowhere to buy “different” clothes. Use to travel to Sydney a lot to stock up the wardrobe. I bought a pair of brown trousers from Mr John that had buttons at the front and a “v” shape above that at the top. I think I was the only one in Canberra with that style!!. Felt a million dollars wearing them….shame they don’t make men’s clothes trendy like that any more. Bought other clothes there, but too long ago to remember what.

  19. I am having a clean out & not sure whether to hang onto my bottle green leather coat bought in the early 70s. Merivale Style no. 354 or 854 (hard to read). Very sentimental to me & hard to throw out. Not sure why I have kept it so long. All my other Merivale purchases are long gone. Loved that shop. Maybe one of my grand daughters maybe interested?

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