[Exhibition] M&others at the Modemuseum Hasselt

Hello, something from the vaults today: last year I had the pleasure to see a number of fashion exhibitions in Europe, and much belated, here’s a short report on one focused on maternity fashion, at the wonderful Modemuseum in Hasselt, Belgium.

Motherhood is an event that can temporarily and permanently change a woman’s body, and reflects a range of social and cultural attitudes in dress from warm femininity to shame. Pregnancy and breast-feeding requires clothing to adapt, almost daily – and for much of our history, these clothes were designed to resemble the fashion of the day, making the significant event almost invisible. In more recent times, it’s been more socially acceptable and even celebrated.

In my work with vintage clothing, I’ve prized the rare examples I’ve found of maternity fashion: sometimes they champion their purpose, with loose styles, knit fabrics, panels designed to expand…smocks are easy to identify, but often they can be mistaken for ordinary clothes.

One 1950s mother told me that she just wore the same clothes she always preferred, albeit in increasingly large sizes adjusted by the matching self-covered belt. The dresses she showed me were not dissimilar to regular ’50s styles, just bigger than the rest of her wardrobe – one, a navy and white polka dot silk dress by Flinders Lane label ‘Leroy’ I like so much, it’s found a place in my own wardrobe… you can see me wearing it at the Wintersun festival in 2010 here. I actually have quite a few maternity dresses in my vintage wardrobe because they’re designed for curves.

Here are some snaps from the Modemuseum exhibition. I hope you enjoy. You’ll note that many appear to be just regular fashion of the time: evidence of the success of the couturiers in hiding their special function.

I’m glad that pregnancy is no longer viewed as something that the public needs to be protected from.

Maternity robe c1900-1905 and Robe a l’anglaise c1780-85. Both sources: Momu Antwerp. The Edwardian gown is similar in silhouette to fashionable tea gowns of the time, for example those made by Liberty of London. I’m sure they were popular among the affluent bohemian set.
Maternity dress, 1927 by Callot Soeurs and Maternity dress, 1900-1905 by Jacques Doucet. Both sources: Modemuseum Hasselt.
Maternity dress 1933 by Madeleine Vionnet. Source: Modemuseum Hasselt. The loose waistlines of the early ’30s lent themselves well to the early stages of pregnancy.
Ensembles 2020 by Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard 2022 (loaned by the artists). I kind of love Molly’s dress and the stripey socks.
Nursing gowns, 1815-1820 and 1820 (source: Kunstmuseum Den Haag).
‘Ensemble with baby carrier’, 2023 by Marine Serre and ‘Dress for mother and daughter’ 2015-2016 by Dolce & Gabbana. Loaned by the artists.
‘Tear’ 2005 by Hideki Seo.
Dress and headpiece 2009-2010 by Christian Lacroix and dress and headpiece 2013-2014 by Dolce & Gabbana.

These historical illustrations demonstrate how garments might facilitate bodily changes. I love interior views!

Adjustable corset design, 1899. source: La Mode Illustree, Forney Library, Paris.
‘Interior view of the bodice of the dress for a young suffering lady’, 1902. source: La Mode Illustree, Forney Library, Paris.

And lastly, perhaps the contentious of all garment types: the maternity corset.

I regret that my photo on the label is unreadable, so I’m unable to tell you more reliably on this extraordinary early piece.
Similarly, my notes on this corset are useless but it appears to be a Victorian reproduction.
This remarkable corset was designed for pregnancy and breastfeeding, c1900-1910. Source: Modemuseum Hasselt.
Alas the mid-century mothers were not immune to shaping concerns: maternity girdle c1959 (Source: Modemuseum Hasselt).


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