The House of Merivale and a dress with history.

At the recent vintage fair at Williamstown I chanced upon a remarkable frock – a Merivale from the early ’70s constructed patchwork-style from a large collection of original vintage fabrics from the ’30s and ’40s.


Not especially attractive or flattering (the dress is empire style and rather like a maxi-length smock with long blouson sleeves), I could not pass it up. It’s a piece of history, from a rare time.

During the late ’60s and early ’70s, fashion went backwards as much as it went forwards. Inspired by the ’20s to the ’50s, vintage came into vogue for the first time as beautiful (and original) clothing could still be found in the op shops for a pittance. Oh, how the story of these glory days are told often at Circa! Can you imagine finding beaded flapper gowns for a dollar or two?

The House of Merivale was to Australia what Biba and Ossie Clark was to the UK: stylish and sophisticated clothing, now highly collectable.

Here’s a little history: in 1955 Merivale Hemmes started with making hats, later branching out into other aspects of ladies fashions with her business partner, husband John. The first House of Merivale shop opened in Sydney in 1959 and expanded into a six level Victorian building on Pitt Street in 1970, incorporating a Thai tea cafe. During the ’60s and ’70s, the HOM was the place to be seen and buy the latest in fashions including Prue Acton, Norma Tullo and Merivale’s own designs.

This from The Powerhouse’s site:

Established by John and Merivale Hemmes, the landmark House of Merivale and clothing designed by Merivale revolutionised the Australian fashion scene. John and Merivale Hemmes were mavericks in Australian fashion. Modelled on London’s famous concept boutiques and catering to 18-25 year olds, the House of Merivale was the first specialty fashion boutique in Australia.

The House of Merivale was not just a shop; it was a phenomenon that significantly influenced a generation of young Australian’s attitude to shopping and the fashion experience. The House of Merivale was the place to go to for the latest trends in music, fashion and make-up and was the first store in Australia to sell the mini. The popularity of the boutique was such that teenagers would be lined up outside the door.

If you find a Merivale for a good price, consider picking it up as they’re getting harder to find these days and going up in value. Meanwhile – what of my patchwork dress? It’s a mystery. It was found in a country op shop by a traveller, who brought it to Diamond Dog of Seddon, where the lovely Mellita brought it to the Fair whereupon it caught my eye.

How can I be sure that it’s made of vintage fabrics? Rayons of the sort it uses are fragile creatures when wet and do not stand up to machine washing (I recommend hand washing for most, but dry clean only for crepes) so during the 1950s a new type of rayon was invented that could withstand modern rigours. The fabrics in my dress could only be old because the versions made in the ’60s and ’70s are very different. Not surprisingly, it comes with a “dry clean only” label but all the same, I’m surprised that it has survived. Crepes shrink if washed, as vintage lovers often find out to our detriment.

Here are some more House of Merivales that I’ve found on my travels – some have now found new homes and some are from my private collection. Some are from the collections of others – if you have any HOM you’re welcome to forward images and with your permission (and credit) I will add them to this post.

Here is the earliest one: a set of culottes from Lynn Flannery. They date to 1966.
Photos courtesy Lynn Flannery.

1970 (with ’30s influence and lace up back).

Featured in my book “Love Vintage”.

Early 1970s menswear (Mr John) – 1920s cricket style, imported silk handknit.

Early 1970s (c1940 style), photo courtesy Michele Wright.

And these are all from the mid ’70s.

This one had a ’30s style matching maxi dress originally.

This wedding dress is from 1974, and shows influence from the ’30s and ’40s, Little House on the Prairie and Laura Ashley.

1970s knitted acrylic set – Photo courtesy Wendy Simpson.

Early 1970s dress with appliqued butterfly. Photo courtesy Mandy Hurst. Mandy’s dad was a HOM cutter and this dress may have been a sample.

Mid ’70s jumpsuit with shirred bodice – Photo courtesy Wendy Simpson.

1970s strapless rose print dress with matching self-covered belt. Gail bought from the Melbourne shop for a special occasion, along with a pink fabric rose ornament for the waist, and pink strappy shoes. “It was an unforgettable experience” Gail writes: “fantastic shop!”.

c1974, photo courtesy Colette Cattell, who wore it to the Surfers Ball at the Round House in Sydney – and her granddaughter, who wore it to her high school formal last year!

c1974 suit: single breasted jacket, flared skirt and flared trousers (not seen) plus floral blouse. Photo courtesy Kerryn Goding.

1974 wedding dress, with ruffled neckline and platform shoes. Photo courtesy Kerryn Goding.

Mid 1970s tweed jacket, photo courtesy Janet Flowers who purchased from the Melbourne store.

c1976 Ladies suit and blouse. Deborah writes: ‘This was my favourite outfit: I think it cost me around two months wages!’ Photo courtesy Deborah Johnson.

Late 1970s mens style tuxedo jacket of silk jacquard. Photo courtesy Brooke Davis.

Late 1970s chocolate brown duster coat with similar notched shawl collar and padded shoulders, with matching sash-style belt.


1977 wedding dress with medieval-inspired open and frilled wide sleeves. Photo courtesy Vicki Doherty.

1977 wedding dress with floral chiffon, plunging neckline and smocked waistline. Photo courtesy Joan Garvan, who was married on the ‘Radar’ ferry on Sydney Harbour.

Late 1970s to early 1980s – Photo courtesy Kathryn Maxwell.

1983, photo courtesy Sylvia Dickson.

1983/4 skirt suit with piped dagger hem, photo courtesy Lee Wizzie Scott.

1970s leather JAM handbag. Note branded tag and lining. Photo courtesy Judy.

From the Powerhouse Museum’s site: “The House of Merivale promoted fashion that was inspired by London’s boutique culture featuring a fusion of fashion, pop music and art in an atmosphere that was dynamic and fun. The House of Merivale was committed to designing ‘modern clothes for people with a zest for life.’ The House of Merivale revolutionised young people’s fashion and shopping experience.”

At their height, the House of Merivale had three shops in Sydney’s Pitt Street including the White Shop, that specialised in bridal wear, two in Melbourne and one in Canberra.

Over time, the focus of the business moved to hospitality, with a restaurant opening in Potts Point in the early ’90s. The last HOM fashion shop closed in 1996. A large number of establishments currently make up the Merivale stable, run by Justin Hemmes, the son of John and Merivale.

Readers are encouraged to submit photos of HOM garments – all rights remain with the original photographer. Please email for inclusion. Thank you to all the contributors and models Becky Lou, St Clare, Kelly Ann Doll, Lux and Nicole.

Sources: Merivale and the Powerhouse Museum.

220 comments

  1. I love the story of Merivale.
    Chrissy Amphlett (Divinyls) used to work there when she was a teenager! I have photos of the back of the building where it used to say The House of Merivale and Mister John, not sure if it’s still there. It breaks my heart the building has an ugly shop front now, though there were apartments being built in there just before I left Melbourne, I wonder what they look like…

  2. Hi Belle!
    Interesting: do you recall where the building was? Merivale was a real piece of Melbourne (and Sydney) history.

  3. Love those vintage rayons!!! Merivale and Mr John’s story really does echo the Biba phenomenon in Britain. My sister travelled to the UK and visited Biba and another sister coveted Merivale. The 70’s were a bit hit and miss though! Wouldn’t it be wonderful if Merivale wrote a memoir as Barbara Hulanicki did? And their son Justin is forging his own success with nightclubs and so forth in Sydney.

  4. I loved reading this – I worked in the Sydney CBD during the 70’s and spent many lunch hours in Merivale planning my next purchase. I remember a black leather handbag I purchased and adored, even more so as Merivale would customise by embroidering your name inside the bag. It was like a badge of loyalty. I often wonder why I gave that bag away! Such a great store and very London inspired. I remember having a top similar to this patchwork dress- (I still love this look) I now reminisce and wish I had kept those Merivale pieces. One of my daughters is studying fashion design and I have talked about the influence of The House of Merivale but it was such a total experience it is hard to give justice in words. I now buy and sell vintage and collectible brooches – yet another fun and addictive passion.

  5. What wonderful memories Cheryl-Leigh! I’m too young to remember Merivale but I wish I had been to their shop. These days it just isn’t the same. I love your story about the embroidered bag: what a lovely idea.

  6. I actually bought a purple leather jacket and i still have it. I love it but it doesn’t fit me anymore. But i just can’t part with it.
    I also bought a lovely full length black dress from HOM and i wish i still had that as today it would still be in fashion.

  7. I have collected a lot of vintage over the years. In the late 60’s to 70’s I lived in Sydney and bought a few items from Mr. John and Merivale. I have this beautiful very small patterned top with little crystal like buttons. It is so small! Well the material is lovely and it doesnt have any holes in the top. They must have used very good quality material to last 41 years. Is an item I will definitely be holding on too. Do they still have a shop? Also wonder if any of their collections have been shown in museums.

  8. Dianne, your top sound beautiful, especially the crystal buttons.

    Merivale closed down some time ago but some of their fashions are in Powerhouse Museum in Sydney and I imagine the National Gallery of Victoria would have some too. Might have to ask them, now that I’ve started collecting them. There’s also a Merivale dress and matching jacket in my Book, that will be out in October.

  9. In Melbourne, The House of Merivale and Mr John was in Collins Street between Swanston and Elizabeth Sts (southside). I think there is a horrible suit shop (Sires?) in part of the shopfront now.

    As a teenage male, I used to occasionally pluck up the courage to wander in and dream. Couldn’t afford anything mind you, but wanted so much to wear clothing from this wonderful store

  10. Hi
    I still have a leather jacket [purple]also a leather bag, that i lay-byed at the House of Merivale and Mr John when they were in Pitt Street Sydney. I took that jacket everywhere,and on my honeymoon accross flooded rivers when my only thought was if the car goes in the raging river i would save my jacket, never mind the husband. It doesn’t fit me any more but i love it anyway. I bought a long black wool dress also lots of other clothes. It was my favourite shop in all of Sydney. Whenever i wore any of these clothes people would always comment on how beautiful they were. Idont have the any of that now but i loved wearing them.

  11. I still have my very cherished large black leather bag lined with Merivale and Mr John printed lining. It has JAM printed in gold lettering on the front. Have decided to have it restored by a Leather Restoration Company.
    Also remember purchasing a black and white tweed skirt suit which cost me a considerable sum at the time. Unfortunately, I think I gave it to an op shop in the 80’s.

  12. I use to visit the Pitt St store in Sydney on most pay days,I had a leather shoulder bag with 2 pockets on the outside,nearly every female back in the 70’s owned one of these bags. I also had a lovely sweater with little navy & burgandy checks on the cuff and waistband.I remember they cost more than my weekly pay!

  13. Such good memories everyone , i bought the most beautiful dress from J & M for my Nursing graduation ball …. there was no other shop like it in the 70’s , i just adored being in there …. if only to be able to revisit it now !

  14. Thanks for all your comments! It’s clear that the House of Merivale holds a treasured place in Australia’s fashion heart. I hope one day someone does write a book about it’s history, I’d love to know more.

    In the meantime, here’s a photo from my book launch of a ’70s ensemble from my collection:

    70s House of Merivale dress and jacket.

    This was the most popular outfit in the parade – many people approached me later asking if I would part with it. It’s very ’30s in style and modelled by Nicole of the Alternative Modelling Agency.

  15. Going into John and Merivale was like being in a fantastic dream. When I first travelled overseas my workmates presented me with a huge navy leather bag I think it had J & M in silver and black from memory. I loved that bag and it made many journeys until I was robbed of it gggrrrr!!!! I recently found a small white hat in an op shop in Northern NSW by Merivale for $2 my daughter is now wearing that around Melbourne. They were grand days indeed!!

  16. I bought a pair of “reactamatic” aviator style sunglasses from there as a teenager. So cool! Don’t remember the shop being in Collins street though – my recollections have it in Bourke Street opposite Myer and the Old GPO.

  17. Hello,
    I found your web site about the House of Merivale accidently while searching for australian food blogs.It bought back good memories! I use to work in the house of Merivale in Pitt str in the 70’s and there use to be a wonderful vegetarien restaurant in one of the builduing owned by Mr john and Merivale. Does it still exist? and what has developped with the Merivales.Would love to hear anything you may know. Those fashion days were great and we even had the visits of people like Mick Jaeger, Rod stewart , ect. If you have any interesting photos you can also send them on my email. I am living in Berlin at the moment and have started to write a food blog and information about Berlin and Germany.
    Nicole

  18. What a “blast from the past” coming across your article about Merivale and Mr John. I used to work in the shop around 1971/72 when I was living in Australia and loved every minute of it. Being a “Brit”,it was home from home to me and I never realised how important the company was in the history of Aussie fashion. We had to wear Merivale clothes for work, but were lucky enough to get staff discount!! Sadly none of my purchases have survived the years. Hello to anyone who remembers me. Moira Cave (nee Cockroft).

  19. I just found this site searching for some vintage items and had to comment that my Mum’s wedding dress was purchased from Merivale in Sydney. She got married in 1977 and it is in a style somewhat reminiscent of the photo you published but with short fan sleeves. It is very 1930’s style. She wore it with a hat rather than a veil.

    She really loved that dress and it is still in a suitcase at our house but as it was never stored as items are now it has yellowed a bit with age. It is a very timeless dress though. She will be thrilled to know that House of Merivale pieces are coveted.

  20. Does anyone remember the name of the shop in Melbourne that had racks of lovely feminine all white dresses for young women?

  21. I loved Merivale I bought a leather mustard jacket, my daughter has it now she loves it. I paid $94.50 and still have the receipt for it.

  22. I have three matching House of Merivale womens suits. One in white, one in blue and one in black. I am trying to find out information to see how much they would be worth to sell. If anyone knows where I can find any infortmation, please let me know. I am coming up empty.

  23. Hi i have just seen your site
    i used to go to the george st store opp centre point down stairs with timber glass doors
    also opp wynyard station store in 1969 /1970 i bought a army style jacket like the beatles had with high raised heels
    I was working as the first trainee manager for hungry jacks chain then :
    I still have the shoes an jacket today in good condition :
    Another funny story i once worked at john merivals shoe factory at surrey hills when he had a blue E type jag car :
    lots of fun times :
    regards Rod

  24. Colleen
    My husband and I also spent many a pay cheque in John and Merivale and still have full length leather coats we had custom made by them for an overseas trip and they have our names on the label. It has been great to read about the history of the store and remember what a great shop it was.

  25. Hello, I have enjoyed reading everyone’s experience and that time of their lives when Merivale & Mr John had some of their wonderful shops in Pitt St, Sydney. It defines a period in our lives that we will always remember. I also use to work in their factory in Surry Hills and still have some fabulous animal print jackets, t shirts, jockey pants, mohair cardy with pearl buttons and a fabulous leather bag with the famous Jam label. I am so glad I have kept them all in mint condition. They couldn’t be discarded they were made with such care and attention to detail. It just proves that quality never really goes out of fashion, it merely becomes a collectors item.

  26. Wow, I have just come across this also while searching on google.
    Merivale and Mr John in Sydney was the place I also loved going when “going into town”. It was like entering another quite different world–a little bit fantasy, a little bit fun–but always fashions that I coveted, that talked to teenagers of that time, who often had boring upbringings, with recommendations of clothing by Mum that was frumpy and old feeling. I could never afford any of their clothes but my friend who I used to go with could, and it was great just knowing someone like that. We would always spend lots of time there and at another of the best ever stores–Mr Christian shoes! Oh, how I adored their shoes (and even bought a pair once). We would then go for lunch at the Centrepoint Tavern.

    A bit later there was a store open in Bankstown where I went to school and worked. Oh, how that was so fantastic as well–we could go there after school and check things out–it really was “the place to go”. The music and timber floor was so inviting and bohemian feeling. I remember thinking how different but great it was to see mens clothing both looking modern and groovy and sold proudly alongside womens. Maybe the start of youthful mainstream fashion for young men? You no longer went from young boy to aged gentleman in one year from 16 to 17.

    I have a Merivale dress that I picked up recently in an Oppie–first time ever in years of op shopping. I am keeping it as the one I would have liked to have bought many years ago.
    Thanks Nicole for talking about JAM.

  27. The original (in Melbourne) House of Merivale and Mr John was at the top end of Bourke St. It later moved to Collins St. As a teenager I bought all my clothes from this brilliant store. Velvet flares and beautiful crepe tops were my favourites. I even got married in a Merivale suit and shoes. The original Bourke St store was amazing; when they moved to Collins St. it gradually evolved into more of a department like store. The clothes were incredible; sad I have given them all away.

  28. 1 very niaevely went for my first job interview at the age of 15 for a part time job at Merivale, I knew I would not get it however I just wanted to get a little bit closer to the shop. It was like walking into another world, what a wonderful shop and fabulous memories. I now have a vintage fashion store and alway keep a look out for Merivale peices. I recently sold a beautiful cream lace 70’s knee length lace dress to a young girl for her wedding next year. She looked amazing in it and her partener immeditley and quietly came to me and payed for it and gave the dress to her, soooo romantic.

  29. Hi everyone,
    I love reading your comments: I suspect this is my most popular post on my blog even though it’s over a year old! I guess there are many of us who have fond memories of the House of Merivale.

    If there are any film makers or writers out there, perhaps take it on as a project? There’s a lot of love for this fashion house and I’m sure many of us would like to hear more.

  30. Another fan of Merivale from the 70’s… My coveted possession was a handbag in baby blue leather. Does anyone remember the bags with the two outside pockets which were done up with a snaplatch? There was also a version with a zippered extension on the bottom. As well as the JAM logo, you could always tell it was an original by the rounded feet on the base of the bag. Great memories from a great store.

  31. i arrived in sydney from auckland in 1971.first job house of merival in pit st.kitchen hand in the wine bar up stairs.those hot chicks played steely dan all day long.cant find my cord jacket and flared pants i bought from down stairs. jonnie moore

  32. i am 58 years old and i still own and wear one dress of Merivale’s designs ! .. i will never never ever part with it. It is a class that will never outdate. We shopped at the store all the time in Collins street .. it was a haven for fringedwellers back then ..
    Amazing to see the ongoing revival interest….

  33. Hi Gang,
    How fabulous that everyone remembers. I worked at the Merivale Collins Street for 5 years when it first opened! It was fantastic! Boy, the stories I could tell.
    Anne Chan.

  34. Anne, perhaps you should write a book or at least an article? The House of Merivale is a much loved fashion house, I’m sure there are many who would love to hear your stories (as would I).

  35. I have been reading the comments from the old fans of the “House of Merivale”, very interesting, but it would even be more interesting if every one had a chance to see old photos or even contact through email exchange. Is that possible through your blog?
    Anyhow love to read the comments!!
    Nicole Martin

  36. Oh, such fond memories of Saturday mornings with girlfriends at their Pitt Street store spending my hard-earned pay in the seventies .
    I can remember every outfit I ever bought there. Most fond memory was of a fabulous hip-length brown leather jacket. It had lots of pockets and a wide leather belt. I was so nostalgic about that jacket I bought the same one of Ebay recently just so I could have another look and it didn’t even fit me. There was another fabulous maroon velvet jacket with lots of zips everywhere. Just to think they were all made locally too. Now I have a vintage clothing website so can indulge my passion.
    Love all the comments.
    Linda

  37. What memories John and Merivale hold I am watching “Family Confidential” on the ABC what a story I used to be in awe, that was my highlight when visiting the city in the 70’s (Melb)as a young teenager whom loved fashion.

    I admired the beautiful clothes, bags, mirrors colour feather’s the sheer opulence of that memory stays with me forever.

  38. I too just watched Family Confidential and was thrilled to see how fabulous Merivale still looks.What a stylish woman. I shopped at their Sydney stores all the time, spending almost all may wages. I remember wearing a gorgeous blue crepe mini dress to a wedding once and being caught in the rain, the dress shrunk immediately and after being embarrassed in the church I had to go home and change. From memory though it did iron out. I also bought my wedding dress there in 1978 and still have it and still love it. My sons fiancee tried it on a little while ago and I almost cried, oh to be so young again and feel so alive. I still try to dress well without looking like mutton and Merivale tonight inspired me again – going to cut and bleach my hair lol.

  39. Loved House of Merivale Pitt st store. Went every thursday night after college to browse sure they thought I was a stalker. When I finally started working I remember buying a black velvet jacket and a long grey skirt with orange netting underneath loved that outfit. I also bought shoes from Mr Christian, was broke for weeks. I used to trawl the op shops in the city buying vintage clothes and still have many pieces 28 years later.

  40. i loved the house of merivale and mr john

    in the 70`s i also spent many hours in merivale and mr. john`s shop in collins st..
    i purchased a number of items which cost me many weeks wages .
    i loved shopping there………….the atmosphere and the staff were out of this world,……….. as were the clothing.

    over time the building in collins street was sold, and my family purchased the basement, ………now sires menswear.
    the rest of the building has been turned into apartments,………..
    the merivale and mr john sign is still visible if you go down the side of the building.
    the s.e.c to mr john. uwe, the handsom man in the white pin stripe suit in the tv. special, now works for sires…..

    merivale and mr john have given me treasured memories of my teenage years.

    thank you for my memories.

  41. I purchased my wedding dress at “The White Shop” in the Melbourne Merivale shop – early 80’s – it is a gorgeous cream lace mid length dress – it has lasted longer than my marriage! Loved the show on the ABC
    & still have a JAM bag I purchased form the shop.

  42. I loved the ‘House of Merivale’ store in Pitt Street, Sydney….and I too had a red leather bag especially made for me with my name embroidered on the inside of the bag.
    I also had a orangy/pink zippered cardigan it was variegated in colour.
    To own a Merivale leather jacket…was something else….
    I recently enjoyed a program on the ABC about the John, Merivale and the family.

  43. This is my second post regarding my purchases from The House of Merivale in Pitt Street. I also bought 2 pants suits … one in a denim- look fabric and the same one in white. The jackets were short and had zips and double stitching everywhere. The pants also had lots of double stitching. I also bought this fabulous skirt with pleats at the front on either side and buttons at the top. It was very 30s and I just loved wearing it. My pay went on these gorgeous outfits every week. I wonder if the Hemmes family have kept any drawings of their designs? It would be fabulous to see their complete collection.

  44. My mum always talks about this shop.. She has shown me photos of some of the garnmets she bought.. An amazing chiffon maxi off shoulder light blue gown being one if them.. The only thing she kept from merrivale is a waisted pleated skirt.. I’m glad she did because it it gorgeous and fits me perfectly… But she has kept so many other pieces from the 70’s.. I love this story. Why did they close?
    Al

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