Tue 21 Jul 2009
The House of Merivale and a dress with history.
Posted by Nicole under 1970s
[17] Comments
At the recent vintage fair at Williamstown I chanced upon a remarkable frock – a Merivale from the early ’70s constructed patchwork-style from a large collection of original vintage fabrics from the ’30s and ’40s.
Not especially attractive or flattering (the dress is empire style and rather like a maxi-length smock with long blouson sleeves), I could not pass it up. It’s a piece of history, from a rare time.
During the late ’60s and early ’70s, fashion went backwards as much as it went forwards. Inspired by the ’20s to the ’50s, vintage came into vogue for the first time as beautiful (and original) clothing could still be found in the op shops for a pittance. Oh, how the story of these glory days are told often at Circa! Can you imagine finding beaded flapper gowns for a dollar or two?
The House of Merivale was to Australia what Biba and Ossie Clark was to the UK: stylish and sophisticated clothing, now highly collectable. This from The Powerhouse’s site:
Established by John and Merivale Hemmes, the landmark House of Merivale and clothing designed by Merivale revolutionised the Australian fashion scene. John and Merivale Hemmes were mavericks in Australian fashion. Modelled on London’s famous concept boutiques and catering to 18-25 year olds, the House of Merivale was the first specialty fashion boutique in Australia.
The House of Merivale was not just a shop; it was a phenomenon that significantly influenced a generation of young Australian’s attitude to shopping and the fashion experience. The House of Merivale was the place to go to for the latest trends in music, fashion and make-up and was the first store in Australia to sell the mini. The popularity of the boutique was such that teenagers would be lined up outside the door.
If you find a Merivale for a good price, consider picking it up as they’re getting harder to find these days and going up in value. Meanwhile – what of my patchwork dress? It’s a mystery. It was found in a country op shop by a traveller, who brought it to Diamond Dog of Seddon, where the lovely Mellita brought it to the Fair whereupon it caught my eye.
How can I be sure that it’s made of vintage fabrics? Rayons of the sort it uses are fragile creatures when wet and do not stand up to machine washing (I recommend hand washing for most, but dry clean only for crepes) so during the 1950s a new type of rayon was invented that could withstand modern rigours. The fabrics in my dress could only be old because the versions made in the ’60s and ’70s are very different. Not surprisingly, it comes with a “dry clean only” label but all the same, I’m surprised that it has survived. Crepes shrink if washed, as vintage lovers often find out to our detriment.
Here is a sample of the fabrics comprising this incredible frock. In the bottom row you’ll find one of the dress in full.
July 21st, 2009 at 10:14 pm
I love the story of Merivale.
Chrissy Amphlett (Divinyls) used to work there when she was a teenager! I have photos of the back of the building where it used to say The House of Merivale and Mister John, not sure if it’s still there. It breaks my heart the building has an ugly shop front now, though there were apartments being built in there just before I left Melbourne, I wonder what they look like…
July 21st, 2009 at 11:50 pm
Hi Belle!
Interesting: do you recall where the building was? Merivale was a real piece of Melbourne (and Sydney) history.
July 22nd, 2009 at 8:09 am
I loved reading about Merivale. The fabrics are extremely pretty. What a rare find!
July 24th, 2009 at 7:07 pm
Love those vintage rayons!!! Merivale and Mr John’s story really does echo the Biba phenomenon in Britain. My sister travelled to the UK and visited Biba and another sister coveted Merivale. The 70’s were a bit hit and miss though! Wouldn’t it be wonderful if Merivale wrote a memoir as Barbara Hulanicki did? And their son Justin is forging his own success with nightclubs and so forth in Sydney.
August 5th, 2009 at 9:00 am
I loved reading this – I worked in the Sydney CBD during the 70’s and spent many lunch hours in Merivale planning my next purchase. I remember a black leather handbag I purchased and adored, even more so as Merivale would customise by embroidering your name inside the bag. It was like a badge of loyalty. I often wonder why I gave that bag away! Such a great store and very London inspired. I remember having a top similar to this patchwork dress- (I still love this look) I now reminisce and wish I had kept those Merivale pieces. One of my daughters is studying fashion design and I have talked about the influence of The House of Merivale but it was such a total experience it is hard to give justice in words. I now buy and sell vintage and collectible brooches – yet another fun and addictive passion.
August 5th, 2009 at 9:38 am
What wonderful memories Cheryl-Leigh! I’m too young to remember Merivale but I wish I had been to their shop. These days it just isn’t the same. I love your story about the embroidered bag: what a lovely idea.
August 23rd, 2009 at 7:48 pm
I actually bought a purple leather jacket and i still have it. I love it but it doesn’t fit me anymore. But i just can’t part with it.
I also bought a lovely full length black dress from HOM and i wish i still had that as today it would still be in fashion.
August 27th, 2009 at 3:08 pm
I have collected a lot of vintage over the years. In the late 60’s to 70’s I lived in Sydney and bought a few items from Mr. John and Merivale. I have this beautiful very small patterned top with little crystal like buttons. It is so small! Well the material is lovely and it doesnt have any holes in the top. They must have used very good quality material to last 41 years. Is an item I will definitely be holding on too. Do they still have a shop? Also wonder if any of their collections have been shown in museums.
August 28th, 2009 at 10:34 am
Dianne, your top sound beautiful, especially the crystal buttons.
Merivale closed down some time ago but some of their fashions are in Powerhouse Museum in Sydney and I imagine the National Gallery of Victoria would have some too. Might have to ask them, now that I’ve started collecting them. There’s also a Merivale dress and matching jacket in my Book, that will be out in October.
November 26th, 2009 at 12:44 pm
In Melbourne, The House of Merivale and Mr John was in Collins Street between Swanston and Elizabeth Sts (southside). I think there is a horrible suit shop (Sires?) in part of the shopfront now.
As a teenage male, I used to occasionally pluck up the courage to wander in and dream. Couldn’t afford anything mind you, but wanted so much to wear clothing from this wonderful store
November 27th, 2009 at 9:09 am
Hi
I still have a leather jacket [purple]also a leather bag, that i lay-byed at the House of Merivale and Mr John when they were in Pitt Street Sydney. I took that jacket everywhere,and on my honeymoon accross flooded rivers when my only thought was if the car goes in the raging river i would save my jacket, never mind the husband. It doesn’t fit me any more but i love it anyway. I bought a long black wool dress also lots of other clothes. It was my favourite shop in all of Sydney. Whenever i wore any of these clothes people would always comment on how beautiful they were. Idont have the any of that now but i loved wearing them.
January 2nd, 2010 at 8:18 am
I still have my very cherished large black leather bag lined with Merivale and Mr John printed lining. It has JAM printed in gold lettering on the front. Have decided to have it restored by a Leather Restoration Company.
Also remember purchasing a black and white tweed skirt suit which cost me a considerable sum at the time. Unfortunately, I think I gave it to an op shop in the 80’s.
January 8th, 2010 at 4:27 pm
I use to visit the Pitt St store in Sydney on most pay days,I had a leather shoulder bag with 2 pockets on the outside,nearly every female back in the 70’s owned one of these bags. I also had a lovely sweater with little navy & burgandy checks on the cuff and waistband.I remember they cost more than my weekly pay!
January 10th, 2010 at 5:02 pm
Such good memories everyone , i bought the most beautiful dress from J & M for my Nursing graduation ball …. there was no other shop like it in the 70’s , i just adored being in there …. if only to be able to revisit it now !
January 11th, 2010 at 2:42 pm
Thanks for all your comments! It’s clear that the House of Merivale holds a treasured place in Australia’s fashion heart. I hope one day someone does write a book about it’s history, I’d love to know more.
In the meantime, here’s a photo from my book launch of a ’70s ensemble from my collection:
70s House of Merivale dress and jacket.
This was the most popular outfit in the parade – many people approached me later asking if I would part with it. It’s very ’30s in style and modelled by Nicole of the Alternative Modelling Agency.
January 12th, 2010 at 1:46 pm
Going into John and Merivale was like being in a fantastic dream. When I first travelled overseas my workmates presented me with a huge navy leather bag I think it had J & M in silver and black from memory. I loved that bag and it made many journeys until I was robbed of it gggrrrr!!!! I recently found a small white hat in an op shop in Northern NSW by Merivale for $2 my daughter is now wearing that around Melbourne. They were grand days indeed!!
February 11th, 2010 at 12:21 pm
I bought a pair of “reactamatic” aviator style sunglasses from there as a teenager. So cool! Don’t remember the shop being in Collins street though – my recollections have it in Bourke Street opposite Myer and the Old GPO.